Snapshot: Palm Springs
Where to find the gems - Stay/Eat/Shop & Explore
Palm Springs is evolving – a wellness destination in the early 1900’s, a getaway for Hollywood Stars in the early 30’s, and as today’s epicenter of mid-century modern architecture. Popular for its never-ending sunshine, the demographic is changing and expanding – and so are the reasons to visit.
My husband and I joined a growing contingent from the Pacific Northwest when we bought and renovated a small place just south of downtown in 2023. What we’ve found is there are countless places to visit (particularly restaurants) - but many are just mediocre - catering largely to tourists.
As a lover of design, architecture, and good food, I’ve pulled together my recommendations on the best places to stay, eat, shop, and explore in Palm Springs. Admittedly, it’s the sun that attracted us to part-time residency – but it’s finding the local gems that get us excited to spend time there, and where we like to take our friends!
There is still much more to discover, but I hope this list inspires you to visit. If you’ve already been, I welcome your insights and recommendations! And, if you want a slightly different POV, check out this month’s New York Times article on 36 Hours in Palm Springs.
Enjoy!
Where to STAY:
L’ Horizon and The Hermann Bungalows – This is a true special occasion hotel with fabulous mid-century architecture and an abundance of luxury. L’ Horizon was originally built in 1952 by famed architect William Cody and is quintessential Palm Springs with low-slung, mid-century villas, a central pool, and an intimate open-air bar. The Hermann Bungalows - twenty-five ultra-grand bungalows with 360-degree views of the San Jacinto Mountains were added in 2022. You can think of this addition as a hotel speakeasy of sorts (very Hermes and Tom Ford) - with private entrance, pool, and bar (no outside guests allowed).
The Azure Sky – Azure Sky is a small mid-century boutique hotel, close to town but feels miles away. Spacious rooms, good pool and surrounding mountain views, plus a lobby slushy machine serving frozen Gin and Tonics, Pina Coladas, and other classic cocktails that is not to be missed!
The Colony Palms – Sister hotel to L’Horizon, The Colony Palms is an old Hollywood glamour Spanish Revival with bougainvillea-covered balconies and pinstriped pool umbrellas. The hotel was updated by celebrated designer Steve Hermann and featured on Million Dollar Designers when Martyn Laurence Bullard redesigned one of the villas. Located in the Movie Colony within walking distance to design district shops and restaurants.
Where to EAT:
There are literally hundreds of restaurants in Palm Springs, but IMO only a handful of standouts. My top 5:
Bar Cecil – The most difficult reservation in town and for good reason. It’s hip and high design (think upscale Parisian bistro). The steak frites are perfection. And, believe it or not, you’ve got to see the bathrooms! It’s worth staying up until 14 days in advance to secure a reservation. Tip: if you can’t get a reservation, you can often get a seat at the bar (particularly on Mondays).
Workshop Kitchen + Bar – The first true “gourmet” farm-to-table restaurant in Palm Springs. Industrial chic in a historic building with tables under a large olive tree in the courtyard. A favorite: the pork chop with caramelized onion and bacon jam.
Rooster & The Pig – Don’t let the setting in a strip mall fool you! This restaurant has loads of character, serving Vietnamese dishes and craft cocktails. A few favorites to wash down the dumplings and crispy beef egg noodles - The Raven (whiskey) and The Lover (vodka). Also, get there early to snag a table because they don’t take reservations and a line forms before the doors open.
Alice B. – The desert outpost of James Beard award-winning Los Angeles chefs Alice B. Toklas and her partner Gertrude Stein. Located in a LGBTQ retirement community (yes, a retirement community!), serving Southern California-style food. The menu changes regularly, but everything is delicious. One of my favorite starters: red pepper and chickpea hummus with bagel chips.
SO.PA – Adjacent to L’ Horizon and the Herman Bungalows, this little-known gem continues the elegant and private vibe providing alfresco dining under the treetops and a Mediterranean/ California-inspired menu. Try the poussin with pomegranate glaze. Bonus: valet parking.
Special mention cocktail bars: The Window Bar at the top of the Rowan; Tailor Shop; super-secret Evening Citizen; and Paul Bar, a local favorite with character albeit a bit out of the way.
Where to SHOP:
Unless you are looking for a lot of turquoise, orange and mid-century kitsch, minimalistic design in Palm Springs is slim pickings. For a clean and organic aesthetic, my favorite places to go are:
Super/Simple – The name says it all. My favorite shop in Palm Springs by a mile, Super Simple carries a minimalistic and casually elegant selection of furnishings, home accessories (lighting, artwork, ceramics), jewelry, and linen kaftans from artisans all over the world. Most unique are the woven Joshua Tree prints by late photographer Fernando Bengoechea (two of which now hold a special spot on the walls in my Palm Springs abode) and the abstract paintings by Richard Laing.
House of Lolo Interiors – In nearby Palm Desert and founded by a Portland area couple who left the Pacific Northwest in search of the California sun. House of Lolo carries furnishings and home accessories - rugs, baskets, ceramics, soaps, and small gifts - inspired by nature and made from natural fibers and organic materials with an overall calming and restorative vibe. The owners have a clothing store next door that is also great.
Acme 5 Lifestyle – A little out of the way, Acme 5 Lifestyle in Yucca Valley is the Coachella Valley outpost of the Santa Monica shop of the same name. Fun, hip, young and colorful, this shop is boho with a desert twist –Mexican and desert inspired throws, rugs, pillows and more. A must-stop if you are taking a day trip to Joshua Tree National Park (which you definitely should).
The Shops at 1345 – Fun, off-the-beaten path objects and jewelry, as well as vintage home décor, art, and textiles. One of my favorite shops from this collective, L’INDY, recently went solo moving just a few blocks south where they have a great selection of straw hats, gem earnings and gold bracelets at reasonable prices.
Special mention: The Palm Springs Vintage Market – taking place the first Sunday of the month during high season (October – May), this vintage flea market has it all – pottery, furniture, lighting, artwork and great people watching!
Where to EXPLORE:
There are dozens of picturesque hikes in Palm Springs – from the waterfalls on the Tahquitz Canyon Trail to the palm oasis on the Andreas Canyon Trail - but if you are an architecture and design lover, you can take in some of the best sights by strolling through the neighborhoods of Old Las Palmas, Vista Las Palmas, Indian Canyon, The Movie Colony, and The Mesa. Here you will see some fabulous – and historic - examples of Spanish Revival and Mid-Century architecture and gardens. If you want to get a taste of what it is like to live in one of these spectacular houses, you (and a group of your closest friends) can rent Leonardo DiCaprio’s house in the Old Las Palmas neighborhood (the original Dinah Shore house) designed by renowned architect, Donald Wexler.
Finally, if you want a fantastic education on the deep roots of mid-century modern in Palm Springs – I highly recommend Architecture Tours by Modernism Week. These small group tours depart from the Palm Spring Visitor’s Center several times a week and have some of the most knowledgeable guides in the valley.